1920s Womens Fashion 1920s Mens Fashion
Western fashion in the 1920s underwent a modernization. For women, fashion had continued to change away from the extravagant and restrictive styles of the Victorian and Edwardian periods, and towards looser wear which revealed more of the artillery and legs, that had begun at least a decade prior with the rise of hemlines to the ankle and the movement from the S-curve corset to the columnar silhouette of the 1910s. Men also began to wear less formal daily attire and athletic clothing or 'Sportswear' became a function of mainstream fashion for the start time. The 1920s are characterized by 2 singled-out periods of style: in the early office of the decade, change was slower, and there was more reluctance to article of clothing the new, revealing popular styles. From 1925, the public more passionately embraced the styles now typically associated with the Roaring Twenties. These styles continued to characterize fashion until the worldwide depression worsened in 1931.
Overview [edit]
Afterward Globe War I, the Usa entered a prosperous era and, as a result of its role in the war, came out onto the globe phase. Social customs and morals were relaxed in the optimism brought on by the end of the state of war and the booming of the stock market. Women were entering the workforce in record numbers. In the Us, there was the enactment of the 18th Amendment, or as many know it, Prohibition, in 1920. Prohibition stated that it would be illegal to sell and consume alcohol. This lasted until 1933, so information technology was a constant for the whole 1920s era. They instilled this "noble experiment" to reduce crime and corruption, solve social bug, reduce the tax brunt created by prisons and poorhouses, and improve wellness and hygiene. The nationwide prohibition on alcohol was ignored by many resulting in speakeasies. Some other of import amendment in the Us was the 19th Amendment, which gave women the right to vote. There was a revolution in virtually every sphere of homo activity. Fashion was no exception; women entered the workforce and earned the correct to vote, and they felt liberated. Fashion trends became more than attainable, masculine, and practical, creating the emergence of "The New Adult female". Flappers was a popular name given to women of this fourth dimension considering of what they wore. The constrictive corset, an essential undergarment to make the waist thinner, became a thing of the past.[ane]
The development of new fabrics and new ways of fastening clothing affected fashions of the 1920s. Natural fabrics such every bit cotton and wool were the arable fabrics of the decade. Silk was highly desired for its luxurious qualities, merely the limited supply fabricated it expensive. In the belatedly 19th century, "bogus silk" was commencement made in France, from a solution of cellulose. Afterward being patented in the United states, the first American institute began product of this new fabric, in 1910. This cobweb became known as rayon. Rayon stockings became popular in the decade as a substitute for silk stockings. Rayon was besides used in some undergarments. Many garments earlier the 1920s were fastened with buttons and lacing. Withal, during this decade, the development of metal hooks and eyes meant that there were easier means of fastening clothing. Hooks and eyes, buttons, zippers, and snaps were all used to fasten vesture.
Vastly improved production methods enabled manufacturers to easily produce clothing affordable by working families. The average person's manner sense became more sophisticated. Meanwhile, working-class women looked for mod forms of dress as they transitioned from rural to urban careers. Taking their cue from wealthier women, working women began wearing less expensive variations on the twenty-four hour period suit, adopting a more mod look that seemed to suit their new, technologically focused careers as typists and phone operators.[2]
Although simple lines and minimal adornment reigned on the runways, the 1920s were not complimentary of luxury. Expensive fabrics, including silk, velvet, and satin were favored by high-end designers, while department stores carried less expensive variations on those designs made of newly available constructed fabrics. The apply of mannequins became widespread during the 1920s and served as a style to show shoppers how to combine and accessorize the new fashions. The modern way bicycle, established in the 1920s, nevertheless dominates the manufacture today. Designers favored separates in new fabrics like jersey that could be mixed and matched for piece of work and modern, informal, un-chaperoned social activities like attending films or the theater and automobile rides.[ii]
Women'southward article of clothing [edit]
Paris gear up the fashion trends for Europe and North America.[3] The fashion for women was all almost letting loose. Women wore dresses all day, every day. Mean solar day dresses had a drop waist, which was a belt around the depression waist or hip and a brim that hung anywhere from the ankle on up to the knee joint, never to a higher place. Daywear had sleeves (long to mid-bicep) and a skirt that was straight, pleated, hank hem, or tiered. Hair was often bobbed, giving a adolescent await.[4]
Clothing fashions changed with women's irresolute roles in society, specially with the idea of new fashion. Although society matrons of a certain age continued to wear conservative dresses, the sportswear worn by forward-looking and younger women became the greatest change in post-state of war fashion. The tubular dresses of the 'teens had evolved into a similar silhouette that now sported shorter skirts with pleats, gathers, or slits to allow motion. The most memorable manner trend of the Roaring Twenties was undoubtedly "the flapper" look. The flapper dress was functional and flattened the bust line rather than accentuating it.[1]
The straight-line chemise topped past the close-fitting cloche hat became the compatible of the day. Women "bobbed", or cut, their hair brusk to fit under the popular hats, a radical motility in the beginning, but standard past the end of the decade. Low-waisted dresses with fullness at the hemline allowed women to literally kicking upwards their heels in new dances similar the Charleston. In 1925, "shift" blazon dresses with no waistline emerged. At the terminate of the decade, dresses were being worn with direct bodices and collars. Tucks at the lesser of the bodices were popular, as well as knife-pleated skirts with a hem approximately 1 inch beneath the knee.[5]
In the world of art, fashion was being influenced heavily past fine art movements such as surrealism. Elsa Schiaparelli is one key Italian designer of this decade who was heavily influenced by the "beyond the real" fine art and incorporated it into her designs.
Proper attire for women was enforced for morn, afternoon, and evening activities. In the early part of the decade, wealthy women were yet expected to modify from a morning to an afternoon dress. These afternoon or "tea gowns" were less class-plumbing equipment than evening gowns, featured long, flowing sleeves, and were adorned with sashes, bows, or artificial flowers at the waist. For evening wear the term "cocktail dress" was invented in France for American clientele. With the "New Woman" also came the "Drinking Adult female". The cocktail clothes was styled with a matching chapeau, gloves, and shoes. What was then unique near the cocktail dress was that information technology could be worn not but at cocktail hours (vi and 8pm), only by manipulating and styling the accessories correctly could be worn appropriately for any outcome from 3 pm to the late evening. Evening gowns were typically slightly longer than tea gowns, in satin or velvet, and embellished with beads, rhinestones, or fringe.[2]
Accessories [edit]
Ane of the fundamental accessories in the 20s was the Cloche lid. "In 1926 Faddy stated 'The Bob Rules', just ix years after the influential dancer, Irene Castle, cut her hair. This trending topic inspired a 1920 short story by F. Scott Fitzgerald, chosen Bernice Bobs Her Pilus, and many editorials in Vogue throughout the decade."[6] The bob hairstyle matched perfectly with the loose and straight silhouette of the times. During this era Vogue gave credit to this new cut for the immense success of the chapeau business concern. New haircuts meant new styled hats, therefore there was a new craze for hats. The cloche chapeau and the bob were basically fabricated for each other.
Jewelry was less conspicuous.[7] Jewelry was much less elaborate, and began using 'romantic', more than natural shapes. The Fine art Nouveau movement of 1890-1910 inspired nigh of the natural forms and geometric shapes of the jewelry during the 1920s. "Aesthetic clean lines were inspired by designs institute in industrial machines. A key influence of this modernism was the influential Bauhaus movement, with its philosophy of grade following function. Contrasting textures and colour were also in way. Examples of changing tastes in design were the employ of diamonds beingness prepare against onyx or trans lucid vitrines and amethysts juxtaposed confronting opaque coral and jade."[8] Fifty-fifty though geometric shapes and cleaner shaped jewelry were now a trend, one of the key pieces was the long rope pearl necklace. The long rope pearl necklace was a signature faux slice that was sold everywhere at the time. It was cheap and basic in a adult female's wardrobe. "Although buffeted by cycles of boom, low and war, jewelry design betwixt the 1920s and 1950s connected to be both innovative and glamorous. Abrupt, geometric patterns celebrated the machine historic period, while exotic creations inspired by the Near and Far East hinted that jewelry fashions were truly international."[nine]
Shoes were finally visible during the 1920s. Before, long garments covered upward shoes, then they weren't an of import part of women's mode. Now, shoes were seen by everyone and played an important office during the 1920s. Women had all kinds of shoes for all kinds of events. Everything from house shoes, walking shoes, dancing shoes, sporting shoes, to swimming shoes. The shoe manufacture became an important manufacture that transformed the way we buy shoes today. Shoes were made in standard sizes perfect to gild from fashion catalogs to the well-nigh bazaar. In the beginning of the 1920s, Mary Janes were even so popular from previous era, although they paved the manner for the invention of many other shoes. The T-strap heel was a variation of the Mary Jane, having the same base with the improver of a strap going effectually the heel and down to the top of the shoe that looked like a T. Also, "The bar shoe which fastened with a strap and a single button became pop during the 1920s. It was worn with the new brusk skirts and was practical for their vigorous style of dancing."[10]
The influence of jazz [edit]
"The Jazz Age", a term coined past F. Scott Fitzgerald, was a phrase used to correspond the mass popularity of jazz music during the 1920s.[11] Both jazz music and dance marked the transition from the archaic societal values of the Victorian era to the arrival of a new youthful modernistic club. Jazz gained much of its popularity due to its perceived exoticism, from its Afro-American roots to its melodic and soulful rhythm. The music itself had quite an alluring effect on the new youthful society and was considered to be the pulse of the 1920s due to its spontaneity. With new music emerged new dancing. Jazz dances, such equally the Charleston, replaced the slow waltz. Paul Whitman popularized jazz trip the light fantastic. In fact, jazz music and trip the light fantastic are responsible for the origin of the iconic term "flapper", a group of new socially anarchistic ladies. When dancers did the Charleston, the fast motion of the feet and swaying of the arms resembled the flapping movements of a bird.[11] Jazz music sparked the demand to trip the light fantastic toe, and dance sparked the demand for new clothing, especially for women to easily dance without being constricted.
Dances such as the Charleston and the Black Lesser in particular created a need for a revival in women's evening clothing due to the dynamic and lively manner of these jazz dances. Apparel and skirt hems became shorter in order to allow the body to move more easily. In improver, decorative embellishments on dresses such as fringe threads swung and jingled in sync with the motion of the body. Lastly, the utilise of sleeky and ornate textiles mirrored light to the tempo of jazz music and trip the light fantastic.[12] Jazz music and its perceived exotic nature had both a flamboyant influence on mode while keeping both form and function in mind.
Jazz and its influence on mode reached fifty-fifty farther, with both jazz and trip the light fantastic motifs making their way onto textiles. These new cloth designs included uneven repetitions and linear geometric patterns. Many fabric patterns produced in the U.s.a. as well incorporated images of both jazz bands and people dancing to jazz.[13] The print Rhapsody shows a textile produced in 1925 representing a jazz band in a polka-dot like manner.[14] Not but did textiles take motifs of people dancing and playing jazz music, they included designs that were based on the overall rhythmic feel and sound of jazz music and dance.
The adolescent effigy [edit]
Undergarments began to transform after World War I to conform to the ethics of a flatter chest and more boyish figure. The female figure was liberated from the restrictive corset, and newly popular the boyish wait was achieved through the employ of bust bodices. Some of the new pieces included chemises, thin camisoles, and cami-knickers, later shortened to panties or knickers. These were primarily made from rayon and came in soft, light colors in order to exist worn under semi-transparent fabrics.[fifteen] Young flappers took to these styles of underwear due to the ability to motion more than freely and the increased comfort when dancing to the high tempo jazz music. During the mid-1920s, all-in-one lingerie became popular.
For the commencement time in centuries, women's legs were seen with hemlines ascent to the knee and dresses becoming more than fitted. A more than masculine look became popular, including flattened breasts and hips, brusque hairstyles such every bit the bob cut, Eton crop, and the Marcel moving ridge. The fashion was seen as expressing a bohemian and progressive outlook.
One of the offset women to vesture trousers, cut her hair short, and pass up the corset was Coco Chanel. Probably the virtually influential woman in way of the 20th century, Chanel did much to further the emancipation and liberty of women'south fashion.
Jean Patou, a new designer on the French scene, began making 2-piece sweater and skirt outfits in luxurious wool jersey and had an instant hit for his morning dresses and sports suits. American women embraced the clothes of the designer equally perfect for their increasingly active lifestyles.
By the end of the 1920s, Elsa Schiaparelli stepped onto the stage to represent a younger generation. She combined the idea of classic design from the Greeks and Romans with the modern imperative for liberty of movement. Schiaparelli wrote that the aboriginal Greeks "gave to their goddesses... the serenity of perfection and the fabulous appearance of freedom." Her own estimation produced evening gowns of elegant simplicity. Departing from the chemise, her clothes returned to an awareness of the body beneath the evening gown.
- Way gallery 1920–25
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Summertime sport suit, 1920.
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Actress Elaine Hammerstein, 1921. The forehead was usually covered in the 1920s, here by a hat reaching to the eyebrows.
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Rolled stockings, 1922.
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Robe de style, Lanvin, 1922.
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Dress with a dropped waist and width at the hips, 1923.
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Teenage girls in Minnesota wearing breeches and riding boots with men's neckties, 1924.
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Past 1925, skirts ended just below the genu. Tunic-tops and sweaters reaching to the hips were pop.
- Style gallery 1926–29
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Actress Aileen Pringle wearing a cloche lid and boldly patterned glaze, 1926.
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Actress Alice Joyce in a direct dress with a sheer beaded overdress, 1926.
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A painting showing the mid-decade silhouette at its simplest: languid pose, bobbed pilus, knee-length apparel with dropped waist, 1926.
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Woman with Umbrella, Ipolit Strâmbu, 1927. Designers used multiple hemlines (here, tiers of ruffles) to acquaint the eye to longer skirts. This wearing apparel foreshadows the college waist and feminine look that spread to everyday style by the early 1930s.
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Woman hiding a hip flask tucked in her garter belt during Prohibition, belatedly 1920s.
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May 1928, abdomen and curves. Afterwards many years of a "stovepipe" silhouette, "natural" curves were beginning to reappear.[xvi]
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Articulatio genus-length, pleated skirts and dropped waists were still popular equally everyday dress in 1929, though Paris designers were already showing longer skirts and college waistlines.
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Bridesmaids gowns of 1929 accept articulatio genus-length underskirts and longer, sheer over skirts, foreshadowing the tendency toward longer skirts. Minnesota, 1929.
Menswear [edit]
In menswear, there were two distinct periods in the 1920s. Throughout the decade, men wore brusque conform jackets, the former long jackets existence used merely for formal occasions. In the early 1920s, men's style was characterized by extremely high-waisted jackets, often worn with belts. Lapels on adapt jackets were not very wide every bit they tended to exist buttoned up high. This style of jacket seems to have been greatly influenced by the uniforms worn by the armed services during the First World War. Trousers were relatively narrow and straight and they were worn rather short so that a human's socks often showed. Trousers besides began to be worn cuffed at the bottom at this time.
By 1925, wider trousers commonly known equally Oxford bags came into style, while conform jackets returned to a normal waist and lapels became wider and were often worn peaked. Loose-fitting sleeves without a taper also began to be worn during this period. During the late 1920s, double-breasted vests, often worn with a single-breasted jacket, as well became quite fashionable. During the 1920s, men had a multifariousness of sport clothes available to them, including sweaters and brusk trousers (commonly known in American English as knickers). For formal occasions in the daytime, a morning suit was usually worn. For evening wear men preferred the brusk tuxedo to the tail glaze, which was now seen as rather old-fashioned and snobby.
Men's fashion also became less regimented and formal. Men favored short jackets with two or three buttons rather than jackets with long tailcoats every bit well as pinstriped suits. Casual-wear for men frequently included knickers, short pants that came to the genu.[1] The most formal men's adapt consisted of a blackness or midnight-blue worsted swallow-tailed coat trimmed with satin, and a pair of matching trousers, trimmed down the sides with wide braid or satin ribbon.[17] A white bow necktie, blackness silk top hat, white gloves, patent leather Oxford shoes, a white silk handkerchief, and a white bloom boutonnière completed the outfit. The tuxedo belong could exist black or white, but, unlike the obligatory total-dress white tie, tuxedos ties were ever black. Men usually completed their tuxedo outfit with all the same accessories as the full-dress suit, except that instead of top hats they would article of clothing dark, dome-shaped hats called bowlers. Just like women, men had certain attire that was worn for certain events. Tuxedos were advisable attire at the theater, modest dinner parties, entertaining in the dwelling, and dining in a restaurant. During the early 1920s, most men's clothes shirts had, instead of a collar, a narrow neckband with a buttonhole in both the front and back. By the mid-1920s, however, many men preferred shirts with fastened collars, which were softer and more than comfortable than rigid, detachable collars.[17]
- Men's hats
Men'south hats were unremarkably worn depending on their class, with upper class citizens usually wearing top hats or a homburg hat. Middle-class men wore either a fedora, bowler hat, or a trilby hat. During the summertime months, a straw boater was popular for upper class and middle-grade men. Working-grade men wore a standard newsboy cap or a flat cap.
- Style gallery
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Publisher Edward Beale McLean wearing a three-piece striped arrange with a spread-collar shirt, 1924.
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High german aviators, i a prince, 1929.
Fashion influences and trends [edit]
During the 1920s, the notion of keeping up with fashion trends and expressing oneself through material goods seized middle-class Americans as never before. Purchasing new clothes, new appliances, new automobiles, new anything indicated one's level of prosperity. Being considered quondam-fashioned, out-of-engagement, or—worse yet—unable to afford stylish new products was a fate many Americans went to smashing lengths to avoid.[17]
For women, confront, figure, crew, posture, and grooming had become of import style factors in addition to clothing. In item, cosmetics became a major industry. Women did not feel aback for caring nearly their advent and it was a declaration of self-worth and vanity, hence why they no longer wanted to achieve a natural look. For evenings and events, the popular look was a smoky center with long lashes, rosy cheeks and a bold lip. To emphasize the eyes, Kohl eyeliner became popular, and was the first time they knew anything of eyeliner (data about Egyptian fashion was not discovered until later on in the 1920s). Women likewise started wearing foundation and using pressed powder. Also, with the invention of the swivel lipstick, lipstick was on the rise with bright colors and they practical their lipstick to achieve a cupid's bow and "bee stung" look.
Glamour was now an of import way trend due to the influence of the motion picture show manufacture and the famous female flick stars. Manner, at many social levels, was heavily influenced past the newly created, larger-than-life movie stars. For the get-go fourth dimension in history, mode influences and trends were coming from more than 1 source.[5] Not unlike today, women and men of the 1920s looked to moving picture stars as their fashion icons. Women and men wanted to emulate the styles of Hollywood stars such as Louise Brooks, Greta Garbo, Rudolph Valentino, and Clark Gable.[1]
Work dress [edit]
For working class women in the 1920s, tailored suits with a straight, bend less cut were popular. Throughout the decade, the lengths of skirts were rise to the knee and and then to the ankle various times affecting the skirt style of tailored suits.[eighteen] Rayon, an artificial silk fabric, was almost common for working-form women clothing.[xix]
For working-class men in the 1920s, suits were popular. Depending on the job championship and season of the year, the arrange would change.[20] These would have featured loftier lapels and were often made of thick wool material earlier the advent of primal heating.[21]
Children's fashion [edit]
Fashion for children started to become more stylish and comfy in the 1920s. Clothes were made out of cotton and wool rather than silk, lace, and velvet. Clothes were as well made more sturdy in society to withstand play. During previous decades, many layers were worn; however, during the 1920s, minimal layers became the new standard.[22]
For girls, vesture became looser and shorter. Dresses and skirts were now knee length and loose fitting. Shoes were too made out of sheet, making them lighter and easier to wear.[22]
For boys, articulatio genus-length trousers were worn all year long and would be accompanied by ankle socks and canvas shoes. Pullovers and cardigans were also worn when the weather became cooler.[22]
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Roller-skater, Mississippi, 1921.
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Children's mode, Federal republic of germany, 1925.
See also [edit]
- Cosmetics in the 1920s
- Roaring Twenties
- Flapper
- Interwar period
Notes [edit]
- ^ a b c d Marsha Westward. Manner Trends of the Twenties. July ane, 2008.
- ^ a b c Style in the 1920s (Overview). Pop Culture Universe: Icons, Idols, Ideas. ABC-CLIO, 2011. Retrieved December 24, 2012.
- ^ Mary Louise Roberts, "Samson and Delilah revisited: the politics of women'due south manner in 1920s French republic". American Historical Review 98.three (1993): 657-684.
- ^ Steven Zdatny, "The Boyish Await and the Liberated Woman: The Politics and Aesthetics of Women's Hairstyles." Manner Theory i.4 (1997): 367-397.
- ^ a b Ballad Nolan. "Ladies Fashions of the 1920s". Retrieved Dec 24, 2012.
- ^ "Vogue by the Decade". Faddy.
- ^ Simon Bliss, "'50'intelligence de la parure': Notes on Jewelry Wearing in the 1920s." Fashion Theory twenty.ane (2016): 5-26.
- ^ "1920s Jewellery Style and Inspiration". Winterson.
- ^ "A history of jewellery". Victoria and Albert.
- ^ Sancaktar, Asli. "An Analysis of Shoe Within the Context of Social History of Way" (PDF).
- ^ a b Langley, Susan (2005-09-28). Roaring '20s Fashions: Jazz. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing. ISBN9780764323195.
- ^ Hannel, Susan 50. (2005). "iv The Influence of American Jazz on Fashion". Twentieth-Century American Fashion. Dress, Body, Culture. doi:10.2752/9781847882837/tcaf0008. ISBN9781847882837.
- ^ Hannel, Susan L. (2002). The Africana craze in the Jazz Age : a comparison of French and American fashion, 1920-1940 / (Thesis). [ permanent dead link ]
- ^ "Fabric, Americana Print: Rhapsody, 1925". Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum . Retrieved 2017-10-09 .
- ^ Thornton, Zita (2011). Fashion for a Jazz Age. Chicago, IL: Lightner Publishing Corp. p. 39.
- ^ "Dorsum to Dazzler". The Spirella Magazine. May 1928. p. 72.
- ^ a b c Bob Batchelor. "Fashion in the 1920s". American Pop: Popular Culture Decade by Decade, Volume i: 1900–1929. Greenwood Printing, 2009. pp. 292-302.
- ^ Vermont, Jens Hilke, University of. "Women'south Clothing - 1920s - Clothing - Dating - Landscape Change Plan". www.uvm.edu . Retrieved 2016-11-15 .
- ^ "History of Womens Fashion - 1920 to 1929 | Glamourdaze". glamourdaze.com . Retrieved 2016-11-15 .
- ^ "What Did Women & Men Wear in the 1920s?". VintageDancer.com. 2013-06-21. Retrieved 2016-11-15 .
- ^ "1920s Men's Style From Peaky Blinders To Gatsby". The Costume Rag. 2019-12-13. Retrieved 2019-12-17 .
- ^ a b c "1920 Children'due south Fashion Facts". LoveToKnow . Retrieved 2016-10-17 .
Farther reading [edit]
- Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Style two: Englishwomen'southward Dresses and Their Structure C.1860–1940, Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBN 0-89676-027-8
- Black, J. Anderson, and Madge Garland, A History of Fashion, New York, Morrow, 1975
- Boucher, François: 20,000 Years of Fashion, Harry Abrams, 1966.
- Laver, James: The Concise History of Costume and Fashion, Abrams, 1979.
- Nunn, Joan: Mode in Costume, 1200–2000, 2nd edition, A & C Blackness (Publishers) Ltd; Chicago: New Amsterdam Books, 2000. (Excerpts online at The Victorian Web)
- Russell, Douglas A. " Costume History and Fashion" Stanford University, 1983.
- Steele, Valerie: Paris Fashion: A Cultural History, Oxford Academy Press, 1988, ISBN 0-xix-504465-seven
- Steele, Valerie: The Corset, Yale University Press, 2001
- The Spirella Magazine; MAY 1928
- Children'south fashion of the 1920s
External links [edit]
- 1920s Mode Plates of men, women, and children'south fashion from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries
- Photographs from the 1920s taken past lensman, Henry Walker at the University of Houston Digital Library
- "1920s - 20th Century Mode Cartoon and Illustration". Style, Jewellery & Accessories. Victoria and Albert Museum. Archived from the original on 2011-01-08. Retrieved 2011-04-03 .
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